'Flailing into partial relevance'
Mazes connected by bridges
Venice, Italy
Ah, Venice. . .This is a city that is permanently implanted in our collective consciousness as one of those places that is officially romantic. The real Venice, as many fellow travelers have told me, is a bit of a locational and sanitary mess. I heard many complaints about stinky sewage waters and winding streets that were more akin to a place where you'd have to fight a minotaur rather than necking with your sweetie. So what did Jack find about Venice? A little stank. A great deal of beauty and charm. In many ways, it is quite similar to the well-traveled of the world.
Ah, Venice. . .This is a city that is permanently implanted in our collective consciousness as one of those places that is officially romantic. The real Venice, as many fellow travelers have told me, is a bit of a locational and sanitary mess. I heard many complaints about stinky sewage waters and winding streets that were more akin to a place where you'd have to fight a minotaur rather than necking with your sweetie. So what did Jack find about Venice? A little stank. A great deal of beauty and charm. In many ways, it is quite similar to the well-traveled of the world.
Worth it for lost little corners like this
How to Get There
Italy is a very well-trod path along the tourist loop through Europe. I took the train in from Rimini and, like nearly every other train situation in Italy, I had no trouble getting into the city, finding the correct water taxi, and then getting to my hostel (not on the main island, but on Giudecco where the canals are smaller and the cost is fractional). The mass transit (mostly water taxis) are easy to understand and navigate. The city itself, on the other Doge's hand. . . ah, Venice.
Wallet Roll
Venice is not a cheap stop, I think we all know that. Staying in Giudecca was a big help (the hostel was very basic, but you shouldn't be spending time in your hostel or hotel room anyway) as the water taxis are reasonable. Once you're on the main island, just don't blow all your dough on tourist-trap gifts and you can see many sights for quite cheap or free. Maps of the city cost money, though, and that rankles Jack to an almost comical degree.
Italy is a very well-trod path along the tourist loop through Europe. I took the train in from Rimini and, like nearly every other train situation in Italy, I had no trouble getting into the city, finding the correct water taxi, and then getting to my hostel (not on the main island, but on Giudecco where the canals are smaller and the cost is fractional). The mass transit (mostly water taxis) are easy to understand and navigate. The city itself, on the other Doge's hand. . . ah, Venice.
Wallet Roll
Venice is not a cheap stop, I think we all know that. Staying in Giudecca was a big help (the hostel was very basic, but you shouldn't be spending time in your hostel or hotel room anyway) as the water taxis are reasonable. Once you're on the main island, just don't blow all your dough on tourist-trap gifts and you can see many sights for quite cheap or free. Maps of the city cost money, though, and that rankles Jack to an almost comical degree.
Pretty city + canals + sunsets
What To Do
See the sights. By that, ExJack means you need to explore the main island, venturing down those winding paths where the walls narrow in on you. You need to gawk at the gorgeous churches and little works of art that decorate tourist-lost corners. You certainly need to ride a gondola, but make sure you don't attempt it at rush hour (yes, there's a gondola rush hour).
Lastly, head over to another island and take in the site of Venice from afar. Get something to drink, find a bench, and watch the sunset.
See the sights. By that, ExJack means you need to explore the main island, venturing down those winding paths where the walls narrow in on you. You need to gawk at the gorgeous churches and little works of art that decorate tourist-lost corners. You certainly need to ride a gondola, but make sure you don't attempt it at rush hour (yes, there's a gondola rush hour).
Lastly, head over to another island and take in the site of Venice from afar. Get something to drink, find a bench, and watch the sunset.
Giant wooden church doors with a giant carved rosary
Adventuring
Jack spent every waking moment exploring the city, so he didn't take part in any side excursions. There were some short day cruises that you could take from the city, but it didn't seem like the surrounding shoreline was that striking (though I could be wrong). Just keep wandering the city. Take a tour, but take a stroll by yourself. See this issue's essay on the happiness of getting lost.
Respectfully exploring the parts of the city that are usually only seen by locals was a rewarding, if tiring, experience.
Jack spent every waking moment exploring the city, so he didn't take part in any side excursions. There were some short day cruises that you could take from the city, but it didn't seem like the surrounding shoreline was that striking (though I could be wrong). Just keep wandering the city. Take a tour, but take a stroll by yourself. See this issue's essay on the happiness of getting lost.
Respectfully exploring the parts of the city that are usually only seen by locals was a rewarding, if tiring, experience.
At least there's some pretty street art for the lonely souls
Party Time
There are some nice bars and a few clubs in Venice that ol' Jack came across, though he was too tired to partake in much of anything. If you're there with a group and feel like doing a proper night out (and don't mind inevitably getting lost in the city after dark) then go for it.
Also, don't try and drunkenly swim in the canal.
The trick in Venice is not meeting other people, the city is simply bursting with folks from all over creation and they are feeling the romance, too. The trick is finding someone with the time to go grab that coffee with you and you having the considerable chunk of change afford a private roof over your heads. Of course, there's always hostel nookie, but the ins and outs of that requires quite a bit more advice. Pun intended.
There are some nice bars and a few clubs in Venice that ol' Jack came across, though he was too tired to partake in much of anything. If you're there with a group and feel like doing a proper night out (and don't mind inevitably getting lost in the city after dark) then go for it.
Also, don't try and drunkenly swim in the canal.
The trick in Venice is not meeting other people, the city is simply bursting with folks from all over creation and they are feeling the romance, too. The trick is finding someone with the time to go grab that coffee with you and you having the considerable chunk of change afford a private roof over your heads. Of course, there's always hostel nookie, but the ins and outs of that requires quite a bit more advice. Pun intended.
Didn't know they had a statue of me
Jack's Misadventures
Besides getting quite lost, the hostel Jack was staying in was a massive, open air place with hundreds of bunk beds stacked inside what seemed to be a low-ceiling-ed warehouse. The walls didn't go up to that ceiling though, so you could hear EVERYTHING. Snoring was omnipresent.
Jack tried to find a place to do some laundry, but the recommended place was a water taxi trip to the main island than a half kilometer hike into the city center. Instead, he left the clothes behind in the hostel locker. Jack has orphaned shorts and T-shirts littering the world.
The Seal Club
If you're pressed for time and funds, Jack thinks that Italy has three must-see cities: Rome, Florence, and Venice. So there you go, TWT's Official Romantic Places From A Fairy Tale. Go there!
Besides getting quite lost, the hostel Jack was staying in was a massive, open air place with hundreds of bunk beds stacked inside what seemed to be a low-ceiling-ed warehouse. The walls didn't go up to that ceiling though, so you could hear EVERYTHING. Snoring was omnipresent.
Jack tried to find a place to do some laundry, but the recommended place was a water taxi trip to the main island than a half kilometer hike into the city center. Instead, he left the clothes behind in the hostel locker. Jack has orphaned shorts and T-shirts littering the world.
The Seal Club
If you're pressed for time and funds, Jack thinks that Italy has three must-see cities: Rome, Florence, and Venice. So there you go, TWT's Official Romantic Places From A Fairy Tale. Go there!
Travel Tip #148: Flaunt what you got. Some day you won't be so young and flauntable.
Travel Well Traveled Prova:
Liquid Alleyways and Useless Maps
The Happiness of Getting Lost
The canals are undeniably cool. They are, all at once, striking, meditative, mysterious, and a little dangerous. Whether wandering around the city, leaning out the window to water flowers, taking a seat, or just stepping out the front door, you might be taking a step right into the ocean. Watching as they narrow into quiet alleyways is a fascinating sight that will wrap you up.
Seeing a dozen gondolas emerge from their starting position, all bumping and jostling each other like too-stiff geese attempting to all ford the same narrow shoreline, is an arresting experience. Later, you'll be seeing the same gondolas slowly ferrying around couples through light-lit canyons of the surrounding structures.
There are newlyweds there, dashing all over in their tux and dress, asking strangers to take their photos. The strangers always do, a broad or bittersweet smile playing over their faces as they snap away for these two well-dressed bundles of possibilities.
This is the magic of Venice. The best way to explore said magic, I believe, is to get yourself nice and lost.
But Jack, you say, why would I want to get lost?
Because, my bright boy, I say and point my rapier at you, that is how you discover the best places.
But Jack, you say, I bought this map, I won't get lost!
Oh, no, dear girl, I say and toss the grapefruit at your head, not only is that map frustratingly expensive, but it's rather useless, too.
Let me explain: Venice is a maze. It's a floating labyrinth of Renaissance design, like something Dan Brown would have Da Vinco create to help hide ancient artifacts that proved Charlemagne was secretly a lizard person. From afar, while you anxiously await that water taxi to bring you to your destination, you think you can see enough landmarks to navigate your way around. You glance at the map and think 'pssshaw, it's not even a very big island, this will be a piece of pie'. However, navigation turns out to be more π than the apple variety.
Once you are inside the city, walking along those peaceful canals, you will lose all sense of place. The buildings crowd close over top of you, impossibly looking like they are actually beginning to converge overhead. The landmarks are impossible to see unless you round the corner and realize they are ten feet away. After you leave the shore, there is little to orient yourself when you come to the biggest problem of all: Venice grew organically, seemingly from a people that were in a big hurry and couldn't be bothered to put in proper pathways.
I lost count of how many times I thought I was cutting around a lop-sided square on my map only for the little alley I was patting down to suddenly end, oftentimes with a sheer drop into a canal. I would try and backtrack, only to get turned around as the road curved into a courtyard and the name disappeared, replaced with three new paths with three new names. And only two of those names will be on your map. Good luck.
There is a definite silver lining to all this, though. Just like a lactose intolerant vegan will be happy he is unaffected by the inevitable Bovine uprising, you will quickly come to understand that getting lost in Venice is a privilege.
While bumbling and stumbling about the city, I came across a strange church with an arresting bit of modern art adorning its traditional doors. I found a dozen charming houses with their boats tied up outside their doors, waiting for their masters like loyal dogs. I saw real life for real Venetians as women fluffed their blankets out windows and called down to their giggling children who were busy playing a game of tag in an ancient courtyard.
I found a quiet pillar to lean my back against and read a hundred pages of a book while the nearby canal traffic drifted by. When I was first getting well and truly turned around, I said hello to the old, familiar friend frustration. However, as the cool stuff I was discovering started to accumulate, I started to worry less about knowing exactly where I was going, and caring more about where I was at this present moment.
Seeing a dozen gondolas emerge from their starting position, all bumping and jostling each other like too-stiff geese attempting to all ford the same narrow shoreline, is an arresting experience. Later, you'll be seeing the same gondolas slowly ferrying around couples through light-lit canyons of the surrounding structures.
There are newlyweds there, dashing all over in their tux and dress, asking strangers to take their photos. The strangers always do, a broad or bittersweet smile playing over their faces as they snap away for these two well-dressed bundles of possibilities.
This is the magic of Venice. The best way to explore said magic, I believe, is to get yourself nice and lost.
But Jack, you say, why would I want to get lost?
Because, my bright boy, I say and point my rapier at you, that is how you discover the best places.
But Jack, you say, I bought this map, I won't get lost!
Oh, no, dear girl, I say and toss the grapefruit at your head, not only is that map frustratingly expensive, but it's rather useless, too.
Let me explain: Venice is a maze. It's a floating labyrinth of Renaissance design, like something Dan Brown would have Da Vinco create to help hide ancient artifacts that proved Charlemagne was secretly a lizard person. From afar, while you anxiously await that water taxi to bring you to your destination, you think you can see enough landmarks to navigate your way around. You glance at the map and think 'pssshaw, it's not even a very big island, this will be a piece of pie'. However, navigation turns out to be more π than the apple variety.
Once you are inside the city, walking along those peaceful canals, you will lose all sense of place. The buildings crowd close over top of you, impossibly looking like they are actually beginning to converge overhead. The landmarks are impossible to see unless you round the corner and realize they are ten feet away. After you leave the shore, there is little to orient yourself when you come to the biggest problem of all: Venice grew organically, seemingly from a people that were in a big hurry and couldn't be bothered to put in proper pathways.
I lost count of how many times I thought I was cutting around a lop-sided square on my map only for the little alley I was patting down to suddenly end, oftentimes with a sheer drop into a canal. I would try and backtrack, only to get turned around as the road curved into a courtyard and the name disappeared, replaced with three new paths with three new names. And only two of those names will be on your map. Good luck.
There is a definite silver lining to all this, though. Just like a lactose intolerant vegan will be happy he is unaffected by the inevitable Bovine uprising, you will quickly come to understand that getting lost in Venice is a privilege.
While bumbling and stumbling about the city, I came across a strange church with an arresting bit of modern art adorning its traditional doors. I found a dozen charming houses with their boats tied up outside their doors, waiting for their masters like loyal dogs. I saw real life for real Venetians as women fluffed their blankets out windows and called down to their giggling children who were busy playing a game of tag in an ancient courtyard.
I found a quiet pillar to lean my back against and read a hundred pages of a book while the nearby canal traffic drifted by. When I was first getting well and truly turned around, I said hello to the old, familiar friend frustration. However, as the cool stuff I was discovering started to accumulate, I started to worry less about knowing exactly where I was going, and caring more about where I was at this present moment.
Travel Tip #105: On long trips, bring plenty of new music and if you make friends with locals you can trade mp3s!
Giudecca: Across the bay (like Gatsby)
This is a pleasant, little island just across the straight (or bay, or whatever) from Venice. It's pretty on its own, but lacks canals or striking architecture. Really, it's a place to spend the night if you're traveling on a budget and still want to be close to Venice. Still, it is great for getting pictures of the city from afar, especially at night!
Take me to church
Part of getting hopelessly turned around in the twisty streets and distracted by the whispering canals means I had little to know idea the name of any of these churches. So I'll throw them all into one slide show. If you'd like to know how I found some of them. . . I have no idea. Good luck!
Arsenal (not the soccer team)
A very cool fort situated at the end of a canal.
Venice Street Art
I didn't discover a lot, but there were some neat official and non-official examples.
St. Mark's Cathedral
One of the main sights you'll come across. This huge church is probably responsible for Venice sinking.
Canals and Gondola Jams
The canals are the most famous part of Venice, and rightfully so. They criss-cross, bisect, and wind about the city with the logic of being constructed by some ancient, secret society intent on hiding the secret of the Mona Lisa. Wait a minute. . .
Back in reality, even when you seem to have solid ground under your feet, you are never more than an alley turn from a canal. Many of the smaller, more residential ones are so quiet and smooth they appear to be a painting, while the main canals are a source of constant traffic. After dark, when all the lovers board the gondolas, traffic jams seem common, with gondola pole-drivers sometimes yelling at each other. That might kill the ambiance.
Back in reality, even when you seem to have solid ground under your feet, you are never more than an alley turn from a canal. Many of the smaller, more residential ones are so quiet and smooth they appear to be a painting, while the main canals are a source of constant traffic. After dark, when all the lovers board the gondolas, traffic jams seem common, with gondola pole-drivers sometimes yelling at each other. That might kill the ambiance.
Venice by Moonlight
Lights dancing along the waters, gondolas gliding down canals, sweaty tourists stumbling over stone steps. Yes, night time is truly magical. In truth, my favorite night moments were sitting across the bay and looking out at the distant lights of the city, watching the boats move through the darkness and hearing the waves slap against the shore.
Videos
Remember, for more great videos, time lapse photography, and 30 seconds of Zen, go here.
30 Seconds of Zen: Venice Style
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We been'ince Venice
Venice is a place that doesn't need a lot of proof. I could have probably skipped all this written mumbo-jumbo and just showed you pictures and videos. That would be enough. Other cities have canals, too, but Venice remains a unique place. There is a great deal of history contained within those confusing confines, a lot of opportunity to 'ooh' and 'ahh' waits you around each sharp alley turn. Although it is so famous it's easy to overlook how cool it really is, Venice remains one of those fantasy cities come to life sort of places for me. Having to choose between the different Italian cities would be nearly impossible, as they each off different, breathtaking sights, but Venice should never be forgotten.
My personal favorite moment was finding a quiet, out of the way spot to sit down and read a book. I sat near a canal, with my back to the cool stone, and enjoyed just being in this amazing city.
There's a reason why it has been such a go-to destination for people. The beauty of the city, the intimate nature of its narrow canals and quiet corners, these are the things that have inspired such a romantic aura. Go there, and you'll see that it is justified.
My personal favorite moment was finding a quiet, out of the way spot to sit down and read a book. I sat near a canal, with my back to the cool stone, and enjoyed just being in this amazing city.
There's a reason why it has been such a go-to destination for people. The beauty of the city, the intimate nature of its narrow canals and quiet corners, these are the things that have inspired such a romantic aura. Go there, and you'll see that it is justified.
