by Excogitate Jack 'Travel beards are sexy' Issue 2
Cheonchuksa, South Korea
There's a little temple you can find on a mountainside overlooking Seoul with the hard-so-say name of 'Cheonchuksa'. It's a minor adventure to get to, depending on how in-shape you are, so a minor feeling of accomplishment will reach you once you finally hike your way up. Cheonchuksa is one of a dozen or so temples on the side of Dobong Mountain (more on that mountain in a future issue), but it is Jack's favorite temple in Korea and he's visited quite a few. Why? Well, let him fill you in on a virtual journey up the mountain.
You'll need plenty of beer for the journey
How To Get There
Seoul is such a behemoth of a megapolis that this little 'ol temple probably won't appear in the top 100 of Tripadvisor. So, how to get there? Start by taking the subway blue line all the way, way out to Dobongsan Station. You'll see the mountain when you get off the train as well as a whole herd of people making their way toward it. Be sure to stop by the little ranger station at the entrance to the park and pick up a map. Ask the ranger to point out a route to Cheonchuksa and you're set! Please note that the path has many forks and roads less traveled so you'll need to routinely check landmarks on the map that you're headed the right direction.
Sometimes the arrows along the path aren't exactly pointing in the right direction so ask some fellow climbers (probably amused older people) by pointing to your destination on the map. It's written in Korean and you can say it aloud f you're feeling confident in your phonetics (Chi-on choo-k-sa).
Walking at a moderate pace, it would usually take me 1 1/2 hours to reach it. The temple itself is at the top of a narrow, very steep set of steps. Once you climb those you'll see the crowd of Buddha statues and know you're in the right place!
Seoul is such a behemoth of a megapolis that this little 'ol temple probably won't appear in the top 100 of Tripadvisor. So, how to get there? Start by taking the subway blue line all the way, way out to Dobongsan Station. You'll see the mountain when you get off the train as well as a whole herd of people making their way toward it. Be sure to stop by the little ranger station at the entrance to the park and pick up a map. Ask the ranger to point out a route to Cheonchuksa and you're set! Please note that the path has many forks and roads less traveled so you'll need to routinely check landmarks on the map that you're headed the right direction.
Sometimes the arrows along the path aren't exactly pointing in the right direction so ask some fellow climbers (probably amused older people) by pointing to your destination on the map. It's written in Korean and you can say it aloud f you're feeling confident in your phonetics (Chi-on choo-k-sa).
Walking at a moderate pace, it would usually take me 1 1/2 hours to reach it. The temple itself is at the top of a narrow, very steep set of steps. Once you climb those you'll see the crowd of Buddha statues and know you're in the right place!
Please don't high-five the statues, Zap
What To Do
If you're a Buddhist, go inside and meditate! Even if you're not a Buddhist, there's actually plenty to do here. When you first arrive up those steep steps, you'll be greeted by a stacked crowd of Buddha statues, all overlooking the massive valley that cradles Northern Seoul. Although they all look the same, look closer and you'll see differences in the faces!
Round the corner, marvel at this temple hanging off the side of a cliff with a majestic white peak rising behind it. Be sure to wash your hands or get a drink from the small, clean water bin outside the entrance.
Once inside the grounds, take a stroll around the outside, marveling at the painted wood and neat architecture of the main temple. Be sure to climb the stone steps behind it to see the small shrines and, hint hint, a little terrace where you can sit and eat your lunch snack or read a book while listening to the sounds of the temple and nature. If there's a service going on, be sure to quietly duck into the back, sit down, and enjoy!
A few times a day you can grab a free meal in the cafeteria (maybe drop a donation). And, for a great souvenier, pick up a roof tile!
Party Time
As you'll soon find out, the real party time in Korean hiking happens once you reach the top of the mountain and you and your buddies get smashed on Soju and Makgeolli. Don't drink at the temple, please. The monks are probably too polite to kick you out, but that's bad form. Save it for the grand views of the peak.
If you're a Buddhist, go inside and meditate! Even if you're not a Buddhist, there's actually plenty to do here. When you first arrive up those steep steps, you'll be greeted by a stacked crowd of Buddha statues, all overlooking the massive valley that cradles Northern Seoul. Although they all look the same, look closer and you'll see differences in the faces!
Round the corner, marvel at this temple hanging off the side of a cliff with a majestic white peak rising behind it. Be sure to wash your hands or get a drink from the small, clean water bin outside the entrance.
Once inside the grounds, take a stroll around the outside, marveling at the painted wood and neat architecture of the main temple. Be sure to climb the stone steps behind it to see the small shrines and, hint hint, a little terrace where you can sit and eat your lunch snack or read a book while listening to the sounds of the temple and nature. If there's a service going on, be sure to quietly duck into the back, sit down, and enjoy!
A few times a day you can grab a free meal in the cafeteria (maybe drop a donation). And, for a great souvenier, pick up a roof tile!
Party Time
As you'll soon find out, the real party time in Korean hiking happens once you reach the top of the mountain and you and your buddies get smashed on Soju and Makgeolli. Don't drink at the temple, please. The monks are probably too polite to kick you out, but that's bad form. Save it for the grand views of the peak.
You can hear the colors, man
Photoshopping
The temple itself is a real sight so be sure to get a good angle where you can see the mountain in the background. Once you're bumming around, get some macro shots of the architecture or some straight-up shots of any colored hanging lanterns. No-flash pictures inside the temple is okay, too, just don't be obtrusive.
Adventuring
For many of us that aren't base jumpers and such, just getting to the temple is a little adventure in and of itself. Once you've had your fill of visiting it, go explore the rest of the mountain! Also, there used to be a friendly shaggy dog that lived at the temple and, although he's passed on to Buddhist doggy Nirvana, his many descendants can be found as pets at other temples. Find them all and visit some puppies!
The temple itself is a real sight so be sure to get a good angle where you can see the mountain in the background. Once you're bumming around, get some macro shots of the architecture or some straight-up shots of any colored hanging lanterns. No-flash pictures inside the temple is okay, too, just don't be obtrusive.
Adventuring
For many of us that aren't base jumpers and such, just getting to the temple is a little adventure in and of itself. Once you've had your fill of visiting it, go explore the rest of the mountain! Also, there used to be a friendly shaggy dog that lived at the temple and, although he's passed on to Buddhist doggy Nirvana, his many descendants can be found as pets at other temples. Find them all and visit some puppies!
I dunno, man, this station doesn't seem very busy. . .
Jack's Misadventures
Well, one time Jack and Yoda hiked up the mountain and then decided to go down the opposite side. They came across a very pretty restaurant where the tables were set up along walkways over a small stream and some kind of festival. Seoul is a huge city so we figured to just take the train. Then they came across an abandoned railway station and realized they had no way to get back home without climbing the mountain again.
Well, one time Jack and Yoda hiked up the mountain and then decided to go down the opposite side. They came across a very pretty restaurant where the tables were set up along walkways over a small stream and some kind of festival. Seoul is a huge city so we figured to just take the train. Then they came across an abandoned railway station and realized they had no way to get back home without climbing the mountain again.
The Seal Club
If you're in Seoul for more than shopping, get your butt out to the mountains! And, why not visit a beautiful temple, too? This great place gets the Official TWT Seal of Approval!
If you're in Seoul for more than shopping, get your butt out to the mountains! And, why not visit a beautiful temple, too? This great place gets the Official TWT Seal of Approval!
Travel Tip #15:Beware foreign liquors; you are not Frank the Tank. Practice moderation.
Travel Well Traveled 기억하다
Why You Should Love Buddhist Temples
Chances are, you're probably not a Buddhist. That's okay, there is still quite a bit to offer you if you decide to pay a visit to one of their temples. I'll tell you a little story about Cheonchuksa and then things might get a little more enlightened.
When Zap came to visit me during one cold, cold winter, I wanted to take her to my favorite temple on my favorite mountain so off we went. We were fairly bundled up, but it was still a somewhat treacherous climb as the wind cut through our inadequate jackets, having to climb over ice-covered stones was a trial that bled through even our double-gloved hands, and the one part of our skin, right above our noses, was as pink as a newborn's. We clambered and slipped and mumbled curses on our way up the mountain, sometimes pausing to take in the beauty of a frozen waterfall or look out through the leafless trees at the dishonest quiet of the massive city spread out below.
By the time we reached Cheonchuksa we were both ready for a break. Zap's face lit up when she finished climbing the narrow, steep steps and saw the rows of statues, always standing watch in snow or summer. Upon arriving at the temple, the shaggy dog was there to greet us. I played with the dog, scratching its belly and moving a mop of hair out of his eyes before I gave him some cheese. Every Buddhist temple I've ever been to has dogs and cats living there as pets, and often a whole gaggle of birds, squirrels and who knows what else. Any holy place that lets cats curl up in the back of a service or has dogs running around, greeting visitors is a winner in my book.
Zap wandered around the outside of the temple, marveling at the architecture, and then quietly slunk inside the room as a service was going on. We pulled up some mats in the back and I showed her how to sit. We watched and rested silently as the other people were bowing, rising, and intoning with the monk. I enjoyed seeing the wonder in Zap's eyes. She's a pretty girl, and pretty well-traveled as well, so it's a good feeling to introduce her to an experience she hasn't come across.
Chances are, you're probably not a Buddhist. That's okay, there is still quite a bit to offer you if you decide to pay a visit to one of their temples. I'll tell you a little story about Cheonchuksa and then things might get a little more enlightened.
When Zap came to visit me during one cold, cold winter, I wanted to take her to my favorite temple on my favorite mountain so off we went. We were fairly bundled up, but it was still a somewhat treacherous climb as the wind cut through our inadequate jackets, having to climb over ice-covered stones was a trial that bled through even our double-gloved hands, and the one part of our skin, right above our noses, was as pink as a newborn's. We clambered and slipped and mumbled curses on our way up the mountain, sometimes pausing to take in the beauty of a frozen waterfall or look out through the leafless trees at the dishonest quiet of the massive city spread out below.
By the time we reached Cheonchuksa we were both ready for a break. Zap's face lit up when she finished climbing the narrow, steep steps and saw the rows of statues, always standing watch in snow or summer. Upon arriving at the temple, the shaggy dog was there to greet us. I played with the dog, scratching its belly and moving a mop of hair out of his eyes before I gave him some cheese. Every Buddhist temple I've ever been to has dogs and cats living there as pets, and often a whole gaggle of birds, squirrels and who knows what else. Any holy place that lets cats curl up in the back of a service or has dogs running around, greeting visitors is a winner in my book.
Zap wandered around the outside of the temple, marveling at the architecture, and then quietly slunk inside the room as a service was going on. We pulled up some mats in the back and I showed her how to sit. We watched and rested silently as the other people were bowing, rising, and intoning with the monk. I enjoyed seeing the wonder in Zap's eyes. She's a pretty girl, and pretty well-traveled as well, so it's a good feeling to introduce her to an experience she hasn't come across.
Zap whispered that it was beautiful and it was a little hard to motivate her to get up again. She just wanted to sit and watch the proceedings. Even for a non-Buddhist, observing their rites can bring about a form of meditative thought.
After that was finished, while we were putting on our shoes, a few fellow mountain climbers came up to us and tried, with very broken English to ask us if we'd like to have some lunch. They were an older couple, all smiles and short head bob bows. We assented and were lead into a small cafeteria style room where there was some basic Bimimbop and kimchi being served. Bimimbop is a traditional food with leaks and rice and mildly spicy sauce. Kimchi is more Korean than Apple Pie is American.
With some generous portions, we sat at our table and dug into our meal. Although I'd brought a light lunch of convenient store crackers, this was immeasurably better. Zap, at that time being a vegetarian, enjoyed what she proclaimed was the best meal she'd ever had. The food was warm and just spicy enough to give us a little fire in our cold bellies.
Once we'd cleaned out plates and thanked the servers I thought about trying to get some prayer beads. Some famous temples have small gift shops where you can buy things, just like famous Western churches, but Cheonchuksa is a little more simple. I found a volunteer who worked there and, with my own broken Korean, asked about buying some prayer beads to wear around my wrist. She went off and asked some monks and they told her they didn't sell the beads. I had expected this, so I thanked her, and made ready to depart again into the cold, wanting to attempt the summit of Dobongsan.
However, just as we were about to leave, the women and a monk came running up to us. She presented me with a big wheel of carved, wooden beads. I asked her how much it was. She and the monk smiled and just shook their heads. They held it out to me and grinned. I thanked them profusely for a present that, if I'd bought it at a famous temple would have been well upwards of $50. The generosity of the people at the temple made a real impression on Zap. Cheonchuksa was already my favorite temple in Korea, but a wonderful experience like this has certainly cemented it in my mind forever. At least, for this lifetime.
After that was finished, while we were putting on our shoes, a few fellow mountain climbers came up to us and tried, with very broken English to ask us if we'd like to have some lunch. They were an older couple, all smiles and short head bob bows. We assented and were lead into a small cafeteria style room where there was some basic Bimimbop and kimchi being served. Bimimbop is a traditional food with leaks and rice and mildly spicy sauce. Kimchi is more Korean than Apple Pie is American.
With some generous portions, we sat at our table and dug into our meal. Although I'd brought a light lunch of convenient store crackers, this was immeasurably better. Zap, at that time being a vegetarian, enjoyed what she proclaimed was the best meal she'd ever had. The food was warm and just spicy enough to give us a little fire in our cold bellies.
Once we'd cleaned out plates and thanked the servers I thought about trying to get some prayer beads. Some famous temples have small gift shops where you can buy things, just like famous Western churches, but Cheonchuksa is a little more simple. I found a volunteer who worked there and, with my own broken Korean, asked about buying some prayer beads to wear around my wrist. She went off and asked some monks and they told her they didn't sell the beads. I had expected this, so I thanked her, and made ready to depart again into the cold, wanting to attempt the summit of Dobongsan.
However, just as we were about to leave, the women and a monk came running up to us. She presented me with a big wheel of carved, wooden beads. I asked her how much it was. She and the monk smiled and just shook their heads. They held it out to me and grinned. I thanked them profusely for a present that, if I'd bought it at a famous temple would have been well upwards of $50. The generosity of the people at the temple made a real impression on Zap. Cheonchuksa was already my favorite temple in Korea, but a wonderful experience like this has certainly cemented it in my mind forever. At least, for this lifetime.
Travel Tip #81: An argument over a dollar is probably not worth a trip to a foreign police station. Principles be damned, just pay it and move on.
Cheonchuksa In Summer
Take a gander at the temple and its grounds during the summer time. The sky is nice and blue, the hikers are nice and boozy, and the dogs are quite shaggy. Two especially neat aspects: the collection of dozens of Buddha statues overlooking the city from the cliff face and the peaks of Dobong Mountain behind the temple. If you squint, you might see Zap, Yoda, and some nice Korean girls.
The Winter Wind, Came Blowin' In, off the Kim-Chi. . .
Same place, but a little more chill this time!
Everyone Loves A Shaggy Dog Story
Ah, my four-legged friend in Korea. The Shaggy Dog and I became great friends since I used to visit the temple so often. He was usually on a leash (so as to not accost the many guests), but when the temple foot traffic was slower I'd see the monks let him loose and go chasing him around the grounds. I have no idea how old he was, though he seemed like a spry dog a little over the hill. I'm convinced that he never once got a bath all his life so I was determined that, before I left Korea, I would bring some shampoo up the mountain and give him a rinse.
A few days before I flew out, a few former students accompanied me up the mountain but, when we arrived at Cheonchuksa, Shaggy Dog wasn't in his usual spot. One of the women who worked at the temple told us that he'd gone off on one of his nightly forays into the mountainside and had never returned. I thought it was likely that he did the doggy thing and went off on his own to die.
Needless to say, I was more than a little upset at hearing this. However, since life is often a collection of karmic cosmic coincidences, on the way down the mountain, we stopped off in another temple to be greeted by another dog who. . . was the SON OF SHAGGY DOG! No mistaking it, the shagster had spread his wild oats up and down the mountain and now had puppies all over. Life finds a way.
A few days before I flew out, a few former students accompanied me up the mountain but, when we arrived at Cheonchuksa, Shaggy Dog wasn't in his usual spot. One of the women who worked at the temple told us that he'd gone off on one of his nightly forays into the mountainside and had never returned. I thought it was likely that he did the doggy thing and went off on his own to die.
Needless to say, I was more than a little upset at hearing this. However, since life is often a collection of karmic cosmic coincidences, on the way down the mountain, we stopped off in another temple to be greeted by another dog who. . . was the SON OF SHAGGY DOG! No mistaking it, the shagster had spread his wild oats up and down the mountain and now had puppies all over. Life finds a way.
Temple Paintings
Some of the paintings that decorate the temples. All Korean Buddhist temples seemed to have plenty of colorful artwork and decorations, many of them either repeating designs or parables of different Buddhist Koans.
Cheonchuksa Videos
Remember, for more videos, 30 Seconds of Zen, and time lapse photography, head over here.
Korean Hospitality
30 Seconds of Zen: Lanterns in the Wind
My Mountain Respite
Korea is a wonderful place to live. But it's not always an easy place to live. Seoul is an amazing city. But it's also one of the more crowded and nerve-wracking major cities. Since I'm a person who enjoys peace and solitude, nature and fresh air, it was absolutely imperative for me to get my self out of the city at least once a week. Sometimes I'd go on long runs up north where the city started to run a little more spare and open. Sometimes I'd follow the river to a tributary and hike into the forest. There were plenty of days when I'd take off for a hike at a nearby forest/collection of outdoor burial mounds.
What I enjoyed most, though, was hiking up Dobongsan and visiting my favorite temple. The hike was just long enough to get your blood flowing and the temple was a great little stopping point before heading to the peak (or just turning around and heading back home).
Sitting on the steps, munching on a few crackers, playing with the shaggy dog, or kneeling on a cushion while the monk went through his recitals all refilled my tank, recharged my soulful batteries.
I'm sure if you, my dear few readers, were to go to Cheonchuksa you might say 'eh, it's nice and all, but nothing amazing' and I objectively understand that. However, for me, the place is not just a pretty temple, it is a symbol of reconnecting with myself before my metaphorical candle gets forever lost in the wildfire of humanity that is Seoul.
What I enjoyed most, though, was hiking up Dobongsan and visiting my favorite temple. The hike was just long enough to get your blood flowing and the temple was a great little stopping point before heading to the peak (or just turning around and heading back home).
Sitting on the steps, munching on a few crackers, playing with the shaggy dog, or kneeling on a cushion while the monk went through his recitals all refilled my tank, recharged my soulful batteries.
I'm sure if you, my dear few readers, were to go to Cheonchuksa you might say 'eh, it's nice and all, but nothing amazing' and I objectively understand that. However, for me, the place is not just a pretty temple, it is a symbol of reconnecting with myself before my metaphorical candle gets forever lost in the wildfire of humanity that is Seoul.
